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The Moselle River Cycle Path
In Germany - a path between medieval castles and beautiful vineyards
Good Wine Cycle Path - A Stunning Cycle Path in Europe
GERMANY - FROM TRIER TO KOBLENZ - 200 KM TOTALLY FLAT, PERFECT ROUTE FOR FAMILIES
Published on September 21, 2024
It's a sunny autumn morning, and I'm biking along, listening to the water flowing like a sparkling ribbon through a golden valley.
I'm riding along one of the most stunning cycle paths in Europe, which winds its way along the rolling Moselle River in western Germany.
The Moselle is a river that starts in north-eastern France, winds its way through Luxembourg and Germany, and meets the Rhine at Koblenz, all while flowing through stunning valleys filled with vineyards.
This amazing waterway is famous not just for its stunning scenery but also for the charming vineyards that line its steep banks, producing some of the best white wines globally, especially Riesling, along with Müller-Thurgau, Elbling, and Chardonnay.
In this region, the wine culture has deep historical roots and great conditions. The river helps keep temperatures in check, which lengthens the growing seasons for the vines. Plus, the steep slopes here face south, allowing the grapes to soak up the sun, which really boosts the growth and flavor of the local wines.
As it winds its way, the Moselle flows through historic towns and delightful villages featuring classic German half-timbered houses, each boasting its own story and traditions, creating a wonderful mix of culture, nature, food, and wine.
Cycling along the German side of the Moselle is a real treat, especially in the fall when the vine leaves turn those beautiful warm colors of the season.
Take a stroll along the cycle path that winds by the river, and enjoy the stunning countryside and picture-perfect views all around you.
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1 - Trier
Trier Cathedral
Arrive in Trier, which is Trier in German, and before you hit the road on your bike, spend a day exploring the city.
Trier, located close to the Luxembourg border, is Germany's oldest city. I really felt its history as I crossed the Moselle River on the Römerbrücke, the oldest bridge still in use in Germany, which dates all the way back to 45 AD.
Trier, established by the Romans in 16 BC, has an incredible archaeological heritage.
Back in imperial times, it was seen as the largest Roman city north of the Alps, boasting a population of about 80,000.
Nowadays, you can still catch a glimpse of its former glory through various monuments, like the iconic Porta Nigra, a striking stone city gate that stands as a testament to the magnificence of ancient Rome.
Just a short distance away, St. Peter's Cathedral, blending Romanesque and Gothic styles, stands as a remarkable example of sacred architecture.
The remnants of the imperial baths and the Roman amphitheater are more evidence of Trier's rich history, transporting me back to the Roman era.
The Porta Nigra located in Trier
Trier isn’t just about ancient history; it’s a vibrant and modern city too, boasting a lively cultural scene, plenty of restaurants serving both local and international dishes, and bustling markets where you can pick up fresh produce and local crafts.
Trier invites visitors each season with its charm and beauty, making it an intriguing spot for those who love history, culture, and delicious food.
Spend the night in this town, then get ready to hit the road the next day as you follow the beautiful Moselle River. It’ll lead you through some lovely rural scenery to the first leg of about 40 km in Trittenheim.
2 - TRITTENHEIM
The view of Trittenheim from the steep vineyards around it.
The cycling adventure kicks off along the twisting path of the Moselle, surrounded by a scenery where charming wine-producing villages pop up between wide stretches of vineyards.
Check out the ancient river tower in Schweich and take a trip through the beautiful Ruwer Valley.
While you're there, you can explore the ruins of a Roman villa in Longuich. This villa, built around the end of the 2nd century AD, is nestled among vineyards and is believed to have been owned by a notably affluent local family.
Keep cycling to Mehring, where you can check out its Roman Villa Rustica, which also dates back to the 2nd century.
The Roman Villa Rustica located in Mehring
Finally, make your way to the peaceful town of Trittenheim, nestled on a bend in the river and surrounded by vineyards. You'll find charming, well-preserved 17th-century half-timbered houses, those distinctive steep window spires, slate roofs, and the sword-like steeple of the Church of St. Clement.
Make sure to catch a dinner featuring local dishes centered around river fish, paired with an excellent Riesling wine.
Here, you’ll discover a range of places to stay overnight and recharge for the next 50 km journey to the next stop: Traben - Trarbach.
3 - Traben - Trarbach
The Roman vessel from Neumagen-Dhron
Just a quick bike ride away is Neumagen-Dhron, the oldest wine-growing village in Germany.
The Romans were the first to cultivate vines in this area, and you can see proof of that in a well-known sculpture of a ship filled with barrels of wine, which adorned the tomb of a Roman wine merchant.
Recently, they built a wooden replica of the vessel, turning the “Roman ship” into a tourist attraction for those visiting the town.
Once you're back on the road, after around 20 km, take a break in Bernkastel Kues, a lovely town famous for its classic half-timbered houses and cobblestone streets.
Make sure to swing by the nearby village of Zeltingen, famous for its wine. With over 170 hectares of vineyards, this town is one of the key wine-producing spots around here.
Traben-Trarbach is a charming little village nestled where the Moselle curves in a double loop, and it's the perfect spot to see those long, flat boats docked during the popular river cruises.
Walk through the archway of the entrance tower to the Bruckentor bridge, featuring its rounded turrets and conical roofs, and step into the charming village filled with stone houses, sloping slate roofs, and sleek Art Nouveau buildings.
The entryway to the Bruckentor bridge and the Traben Trarbach area
Make your way up to the ruins of Grevenburg Castle and take in the stunning views along the river, which winds through this area like a twisting vine.
Or you could take a break like I did at one of the many trattorias, where they’ll give you blankets if you want to sit outside and savor the best pumpkin soup you’ve ever had.
The sight of the valley from the remnants of Grevenburg Castle
4 - COCHEM
The village of Zell
Zeller's Black Cat
Starting in the lovely Traben Trarbach, you’ll pedal your way to Zell, famous for its Zeller Schwarze Katz wine, or the black cat of Zell.
There's an interesting legend behind the name: it’s said that a black cat would show some merchants which wine to choose by jumping on the barrel that held the best stuff.
Sure, the town of Zell honors its famous black cat with a few sculptures, including one that's right on the fountain in the town's center.
As you keep going along the route, you'll stroll through charming towns like Bullay and Bremm, where the Calmont vineyard, known as one of the steepest in Europe, is simply stunning.
The Calmont Winery
If you take a quick look over the Moselle, you’ll spot the ruins of other castles, like Marienburg, along with the charming medieval hilltop village of Burg Arras.
The heart of Cochem
Cochem and Reichsburg Castle view
Once you're back on the bike, you make your way to the medieval town of Cochem.
Cochem, with its grand late Gothic Reichsburg Castle rising above the river, felt like it had come right out of a fairy tale.
The narrow cobblestone streets are flanked by vibrant half-timbered houses, and the squares are filled with cafes and restaurants where you can enjoy local wines.
In the summer, the streets bloomed with flowers, bringing an extra layer of beauty to the already stunning scenery.
Cochem isn't just a spot for tourists; it's a place where history is alive in every nook and cranny, from the old walls to the museums tucked away in the streets that hold treasures from the past.
The locals are famous for their hospitality and are always ready to greet visitors with a smile, making them feel right at home.
5 - KOBLENZ
Eltz Castle
Once you’ve pedaled away from the village of Cochem for about an hour, take a little detour toward Eltz Castle. You’ll discover it surrounded by an air of mystery and timeless charm.
Constructed in the 12th century, it has astonishingly remained intact through centuries of wars and conflicts.
As you get closer, you can hear the leaves rustling beneath your bike wheels, and once you step inside the castle, it feels like you've traveled back in time. The interiors are stunningly preserved, with each room filled with period furniture and adorned with vibrant tapestries.
Make sure to check out the armory, where you can see armor and swords that tell stories of heroic deeds from the past.
Take a break in the inner courtyard, which is sheltered by tall walls that keep the outside world at bay, and savor a moment of peace and reflection before continuing your bike ride to Koblenz.
The Moselle meets the Rhine at the Deutsches Eck in Koblenz
Riverside view in Koblenz
Koblenz, located where the Rhine and Moselle rivers meet, is known for its deep history and vibrant cultural traditions.
This German city is one of the oldest in the country, dating back to the 9th century BC, and it features beautiful river views, charming medieval castles, and inviting squares.
As you stroll through the streets, you can take in the stunning Gothic architecture of the Basilica of San Castore, the impressive Electoral Palace, the Rocca, and the well-known "Deutsches Eck," where the two rivers converge.
The city has a vibrant food scene, featuring restaurants that serve traditional Rhineland dishes and fantastic local wines.
I’m wrapping up my journey here. There’s a twinge of sadness that hits me as my travel companion, the Moselle River, which has been by my side for days, merges into the Rhine and disappears.
I find my eyes drifting off into the distance. Up above the city lights, a red sky is signaling that nice weather is on the way.
MOSELLE CYCLE PATH - PRACTICAL INFO AND HELPFUL TIPS
DIFFICULTY LEVEL: easy, great for families
You can take the route in either direction, whether it's Trier to Koblenz or Koblenz to Trier.
Starting point: Trier
Type of bike: mountain bike, gravel bike, or e-bike. The cycle path stretches for about 150 km, mostly paved with just a short section of dirt road
Directions: just keep following the path alongside the river
Travel time: usually around 6 days, but it really depends on your pace, the stops you make, and whether there are kids with you
Distance: roughly 200 km, pretty much all flat
Where to sleep: spend a night in Trier to check out the city
You'll find plenty of villages along the river, and in each spot, there are places to stay, ranging from fancy resorts with spas to more basic options.
Getting to Trier:
BY PLANE The nearest airports to Trier are Luxembourg (LUX), about 30 minutes away, and Frankfurt (FRA) and Saarbrücken (SCN), both roughly an hour away.
BY CAR It takes about 8 hours to drive from Northern Italy through Switzerland and Germany.
How to return:
Once your trip wraps up, you can head out from the city of Koblenz to:
- You can fly back home from one of the airports in Luxembourg (LUX) in about 1.5 hours, Frankfurt (FRA) also takes around 1.5 hours, and Saarbrücken (SCN) is about a 2-hour flight.
- You can take a train straight from Koblenz train station, where you'll find plenty of trains heading to Trier (about a 2-hour ride) and to popular cities like Munich, Prague, and Frankfurt.
Most trains have room for carrying bicycles.
- Head back to the starting point with a private transfer, which takes about 1.20 hours by car.
Bike rental: You can grab a bike in Trier (or Koblenz, depending on where you’re starting from)
When you book with a tour operator, they typically supply the bikes. Alternatively, you can bring your own bike if you prefer a DIY trip.
Organized Tours: There are plenty of tour companies that set up group bike tours, offering help and guidance throughout the journey, or you can choose bike and river cruise packages
Reach out to your reliable travel consultant to pick the best option for you.