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The Borromean Islands
(a Ferry Trip on Maggiore Lake)
Which Borromean Island is the most beautiful?
Published on August 23, 2024
Adored by Ernest Hemingway and a favorite spot for the English royals, the Borromean Islands consist of three main islands and several smaller rocks, like the Islet of S. Giovanni and the Malghera rock. They are situated in the middle of Maggiore Lake, between Verbania and the well-known tourist hub of Stresa.
Isola Bella houses the Borromeo Palace from the 17th century and its stunning gardens, Isola dei Pescatori, also called Isola Superiore, is a charming spot, and Isola Madre is famous for its botanical garden showcasing unique plants.
The history of these locations is intertwined with the prominent noble families of Lombardy, especially the Borromeos and the Viscontis, who selected Maggiore Lake as their preferred location and constructed luxurious homes there.
The Borromeo family specifically initiated this change in the 14th century by constructing stylish villas with intricate gardens.
Today, the family still possesses Isola Bella, Isola Madre, and the two rocks in the northern part of the lake known as Castelli di Cannero, which house some ruins of medieval buildings.
I hop on the ferry leaving from Intra town, cruising the beautiful Maggiore Lake, stopping at all three main islands, giving me the chance to relax and enjoy the entire day.
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1 - ISOLA BELLA
Isola Bella, as the name implies, is a real gem located in the center of Maggiore Lake.
The Italian gardens that ascend the terraces were established between 1631 and 1671 and now captivate visitors who wander among flowers of various colors depending on the seasons.
The Teatro Massimo is the primary monument in the garden, featuring statues, obelisks, and fountains that blend seamlessly with the lush terraces. Atop these terraces is the heraldic symbol of the Borromeo family, the unicorn.
The Garden of Love is delightful to see.
The box hedges surround various plants and flowers like camellias, rose espaliers, oleanders, and hydrangeas that bloom beautifully in different seasons. White peacocks roam around, bringing a sense of nobility and mystery to the scene.
Citrus fruit cultivation has a long history of over 400 years. Lemon and orange trees with various qualities were meticulously documented. Nowadays, the trees along the "bitter orange avenue" mirror the island's landscape and produce exceptionally sweet fruits despite their name.
The Borromeo Palace, known for its baroque architecture, 20 lavishly decorated rooms, and the Berthier Gallery showcasing over 130 paintings, narrates tales of a bygone era. Since 1630, the island has evolved from a simple fishing village with two small churches and a handful of vegetable gardens into a prestigious destination.
One of the stunning white peacocks at Isola Bella
I hop back on the ferry that's scheduled to take me to the next island.
The first days of September bring a refreshing breeze, offering a clear sky, a view of Mount Mottarone (1491 m), and the calm waters of the lake.
The view of Maggiore Lake from Mount Mottarone
2 - ISOLA DEI PESCATORI
Isola dei Pescatori
My footsteps on the gravel of Via Lungo Lago echoed the peaceful pace of a leisurely stroll on an island where life seems to mirror the gentle flow of the lake.
Isola dei Pescatori, the smallest of the Borromean islands, is permanently inhabited by only around fifty residents.
Unlike the other islands in the archipelago, it is not owned by the Borromeo family.
The island looks its best in the evening when the tourists depart, and the locals reclaim it, or on a day like today when a brisk breeze hints at the upcoming autumn.
A few years back, the island was mostly home to fishermen. Nowadays, due to tourism, the fishermen have become restaurant owners, hotel managers, and store owners.
However, the island still keeps its genuine essence within the cobblestone streets surrounding the Church of San Vittore, amidst the houses with lengthy balconies for drying fish, and the rooftops that nearly meet.
Take a look at the little graveyard located behind the church.
Local families' fishermen are laid to rest here, identifiable by the model boats positioned beside their graves.
The Guidelines
holiday by the Sea
It's the perfect spot to try out local dishes and products in charming restaurants with terraces overlooking the serene lake.
Reluctantly, I depart from the island with its old-world atmosphere as the ferry is already pulling away from the shore.
It's time for us visitors to allow this land to return to its natural state.
3 - ISOLA MADRE
A view from above of Isola Madre
Isola Madre, the biggest of the Borromean Islands and separated from the rest, has no residents.
Mainly covered by beautiful English-style botanical gardens maintained with love and dedication, the island is home to a variety of exotic plants and rare flowers that turn it into an "earthly paradise," as described by the writer Gustave Flaubert.
It's well-known for Europe's oldest Cashmere Cypress, over 200 years old, as well as the pergolas draped with ancient wisteria, lemon espaliers, hibiscus, and ginkgo biloba.
The sight from the ferry as it approaches Isola Madre
White and colorful peacocks, parrots, pheasants, and ducks roam freely along the pathways, setting an exotic ambiance of a tropical land in northern Italy.
The Borromeo Palace, built in the 16th century, is a stunning example of architecture and art. Its rooms are decorated with frescoes, tapestries, and antique furniture from different family residences, showcasing the lifestyle of past times.
Make sure you check out the must-see area all about "Puppet Theatres": back in the 17th century, they were a source of entertainment for families, friends, and servants, and they continue to captivate visitors with their enchanting magic to this day.
The Marionette Theatre at Borromeo Palace (Isola Madre)
Essential for
the trip to the lake
Practical Information and Useful Tips for the Borromean Islands.
How to go there: you can take scheduled and private ferries from the main towns around the lake without needing to make a reservation (Intra, Verbania, Baveno, Stresa, from Laveno with a ferry change in Intra). There are spacious parking lots close to where the ferries depart.
The ticket price for unlimited travel between the islands is €20-27 for adults and €10-13 for children up to 12 years old (prices vary depending on the departure point) - www.navigazionelaghi.it. Isola Bella and Pescatori attractions are open from mid-March to early November, while Isola Madre attractions are open from April to October. There is a bookshop, café, and restaurant available on-site.
Accommodation: consider staying between Baveno and Stresa, on Isola dei Pescatori or Isola Maggiore
Typical dishes: lake fish such as whitefish, bleak, pike, and trout; cheeses from Bettelmatt, Toma del Mottarone, or Ossolano d’Alpe; Tapulone (a boiled meat), Margheritine di Stresa biscuits, and Baci di Arona
Souvenir: citrus perfumes, unicorn items (symbol of the Borromeo family), and ceramic items