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Recipe of joy
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FINNISH LAPLAND
What to see and do in Lapland in winter
The best time to go to Lapland - Christmas in Santa's Land
WHAT TO DO IN 5 DAYS:
Published on 02/06/2024
Easily accessible thanks to increasingly frequent flights from Milan, London, Istanbul, Helsinki, ... Lapland has become an increasingly popular tourist destination.
Although I prefer warm climates, a couple of years ago I was attracted by the prospect of enjoying the magic of Christmas in a setting of white snow and frozen lakes, the sound of bells, the rustle of reindeer sleighs, little houses that look like gingerbread and sled dogs eager to run. I have to tell you that I was not disappointed.
So at the beginning of December my partner and I landed at the airport which is located about 8 km from Rovaniemi on an icy runway.
From above, the land seemed like an endless expanse shrouded in fog that veiled the flat landscape covered with tall snow-capped trees and frozen lakes as far as the eye could see, giving the first impression of having landed in a cold and remote land.
The view from the plane before landing in Rovaniemi
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Our beautiful cottage was in the woods about a 15 minute drive from the city and from which several walking trails branched off into the snow-covered woods and ran alongside a rushing river that resisted the temptation to freeze and rest until the thaw.
The river next to our accommodation
The city of Rovaniemi does not have much to offer tourists: the architecture is reminiscent of the style of the nearby Russian republic and, apart from the bridge over the frozen river, some good restaurants and souvenir shops, there is not much else to see.
The Arctic Circle line
The sleigh pulled by the reindeer
Santa's Village
Just outside the city, right on the parallel of the Arctic Circle, there is a magical place where the Christmas spirit plays all year round among the birch trees and tall pines.
Santa Claus Village is a fairy-tale place made up of red wooden houses, typical shops and restaurants, a circuit for reindeer-pulled sleighs, Santa Claus's house and his Official Post Office.
A fantastic place to be a child at any age.
The entrance to Santa's house
Santa Claus is a big man who meets adults and children in his house: the elves welcome people and lead them into the room warmed by the lit fireplace to have a chat with the friendly protagonist before posing for the souvenir photo (€35!!)
Santa Claus, Santa Claus's Main Post Office, 96930 Arctic Circle.
This is the address to which more or less grown-up children send their wishes for next Christmas, sealed in the thousands of letters that arrive every year to the attention of Santa Claus right in this Post Office at the Arctic Circle.
Here they are collected and displayed in order of country of origin in a beautiful red display case that makes the atmosphere even more magical.
Santa Claus Post Office at the Arctic Circle
For anyone who wants to keep a little magic for the following Christmas, for a small fee there is the possibility of requesting a letter from Santa Claus to be sent to your home address which will arrive by the following Christmas.
We did it and the following Christmas, when we had already forgotten about it, the letter arrived! What a nice surprise!
The dog sledding experience the next day was absolutely unmissable.
Marco and I took turns leading the sled along a path that passed through a pine and birch forest under a leaden sky and over a snow-white ground where time had stood still and the only sounds were the rustling of the sled and the panting of the five dogs.
View from the dog sled
The trip ended with a snack around a crackling fire that illuminated the inside walls of the Sami tent where we were staying while our guide answered all our questions and told us about the life in contact with nature that most of the people led in that solitary place.
There was still some time left to return to the kennel and cuddle and get to know better those thanks to which this was possible: the splendid husky dogs that for generations have been at man's side in this difficult climate.
Stop near a Sami tent
“Don’t tense up in the saddle and follow the contours of the terrain,” the instructor told us while the engine was running and we were ready to go.
It was time for the snowmobile ride: a 3-hour drive along the forest trails followed by lunch in a beautiful restaurant overlooking the frozen lake where we had the opportunity to get to know our guides better, a nice French boy and a Finnish gentleman who was as shy as he was knowledgeable and helpful.
Relaxed and cheerful, we chatted about ourselves and them, about this solitary territory, about the pros and cons of Lappish life and the peculiarities of the job of a tourist guide.
The exchange of opinions between people who are different from every point of view is the part I love most about my travels and that allows me to look at the world from another perspective.
The Guidelines
holiday by the Sea
The last evening of our vacation was dedicated to the Finnish sauna: a floating wooden barrel frozen in the ice of a lake with a wood-burning stove inside that heated the air up to 100 °C.
We stayed inside for about ten minutes before taking a decidedly refreshing dip lasting a few seconds in the lake into which a hole had been made in the ice so that we could immerse ourselves.
Having plucked up our courage, we dived into the icy waters of the lake: at first it was like being pierced by many needles all over our body but in the end we got a taste for it and repeated the sauna and the immersion 4 times experiencing an immediate sense of well-being both physical and mental.
We at the exit of the Finnish sauna
It was one of the memorable evenings of this vacation.
A reindeer at Santa's Village
It is the symbolic animal of Lapland.
You can see them everywhere, wandering along the roadside near the few inhabited centers or alone in the woods.
The reindeer, which give the impression of being wild and shy, are actually owned by local herders.
In Sami culture they play a fundamental role and provide meat, skins and act as a means of transport.
There are as many as 400 different words for reindeer and related activities in the local language and the shape on the map of Lapland is designed to resemble a reindeer's head just to give you an idea of the importance it has in their culture.
If you are wondering as I did, the answer is No. You cannot buy a reindeer but the animals are passed down from father to son and the number of reindeer owned is strictly confidential.
So… don’t ask how many reindeer you own! It would be like asking for the balance of your bank account!
At this point, if you have read my article and are thinking of leaving for the north and experiencing the activities described, I recommend you book everything in advance from Italy, to enjoy the trip without worries, by referring to the website visitrovaniemi.fi.
I know that it is possible to book activities on site at the tourist offices in Rovaniemi or at Santa Claus Village but keep in mind that during peak periods you risk not finding a place.
When choosing activities, I recommend choosing options that aren’t too long so you don’t end up staying outside for too long and suffering from the cold.
In any case, tour operators provide super warm overalls to wear over your clothes that allow you to fully enjoy the moment at any temperature.
Finally, try the tasty local cuisine that will warm you up after a day outdoors with dishes based on salmon, reindeer meat, soups and berries.
The only major absentee from our vacation was the Northern Lights: this gives us a good excuse to return.
Finnish Lapland: Practical information and useful tips
Population: 2,317,000 people of Sami descent Capital: Rovaniemi
Climate: Arctic, located in the region crossed by the Arctic Circle
Daylight hours in December from 9am to 3pm, it snowed every day
Security: perceived sense of security everywhere
Currency: Euro
Entry requirements: identity card for Europeans - passport
When to go: December before Christmas for the atmosphere or March for more daylight hours What to wear: In winter, winter clothing with a warm waterproof jacket, waterproof boots, undergloves and mittens
Getting around: 4x4 cars with snow or studded tires. Main roads are cleared.
Public transportation is not very frequent.
Power outlets: like the Europeans ones
Internet: good speed Wifi available in hotels
Souvenir: Kuksa the Sami wooden cup, reindeer skins and meat, berry jams
Cost for 5 days (medium category accomodation): €2,500 per person including flights and activities