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Recipe of joy

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Crete, Beaches, and History

The prettiest beaches in the Mediterranean

Things to Check Out in Crete:


  • Heraklion, Rethymno, Chania
  • Historical Sites: Venetian Fortress of Heraklion, Palace of Knossos
  • The beaches: Agios Nikolaos, Balos Lagoon, Elafonissi, Preveli (South ​Coast)

What I need for this journey

Serene and calm, it appears to extend as if to affectionately safeguard the islands of the Aegean ​Sea whose boundary it marks.


As we approach by ferry after a night of sailing, Crete, the biggest island in Greece, reveals itself in ​all its vastness.

Heraklion, Crete

We head to the main port of the island situated in the capital ​Heraklion, a bustling city where we stroll along the seafront ​lined with two or three-story buildings until we reach the ​Venetian Fortress. From there, we continue along a path that ​follows the breakwater all the way to the lighthouse marking ​the port entrance.

The north of the island consists of variously sized villages by the sea, bustling cities, and beaches ​with golden sand and clear water, some secluded and peaceful, others busy and well-equipped.

Beaches in Crete are widely regarded as some of the most stunning in the Mediterranean, catering ​to various preferences. Whether you enjoy vibrant beaches like those in the Agios Nikolaos region ​or the untamed beauty of Balos Lagoon, the

Whether it's the stunning Elafonissi or any of the numerous beaches along the south coast, Crete is ​sure to meet your expectations.

elafonissi
Elafonissi Beach

Among the streets of Rethymno

The north coast is more developed for ​tourists, and besides the capital ​Heraklion, it includes the charming towns ​of Retimno and Canià. Here, you can ​immerse yourself in the vibrant local ​scene and wander through the quaint ​alleys lined with cheerful tables outside ​the trattorias.

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Crete didn't just charm us with its Mediterranean flora or its beaches.

The Palace of Knossos, which was once a ​significant part of a bustling Cretan ​Civilization, shares a captivating tale of ​ancient times and legendary heroes.


The palace was known as the city's ​palace, where public events were held, ​and it was lavishly decorated, as can still ​be observed in some well-preserved ​areas like the Throne Room or the ​Banquet Hall.

Trip to the Knossos Palace

The throne of Minoan palace in Knossos, Crete (Greece)

Throne Room Detail

However, its massive size and complex room layout led to its ​association with a labyrinth, intertwining facts with the fairy tale and ​the myth of Minos, Theseus, and the Minotaur.

Starting from the north coast, which is our exploration base, ​we plan to head towards the south coast. We will then cross ​the central mountainous region, navigating a road with over a ​thousand curves through steep gorges. Along the way, we ​will stumble upon churches that are almost completely ​engulfed by the rock.

The stone church by the road to the south

We're currently admiring the beautiful coastline of Preveli, with ​waves crashing on the stones that have tumbled into the water ​from above. The rugged beauty of this less-visited part of the ​island is truly fascinating.

The untamed shoreline of ​Preveli

Sadly, it was time to leave once more.


Crete had a brief romance with it.

It felt like saying to her, "I want to stay and be with you, but I have ​to leave now."

The Guidelines

Various wildflowers growing in field in countryside

open air

Cartagena | Rosario Island | Caribbean Colombia

holiday by the Sea

Long live rural ​areas!

Long live rural ​areas!

Rhodes, My First Love

The most well-known island in the Dodecanese

Things to Check Out in Rhodes:


  • The cities are Rhodes City and Lindos.
  • Historical sites: Temple of Minerva in Lindos, the walls and the historic center of the city of ​Rhodes.
  • The Valley of Butterflies: Natural Beauty
  • The beaches: Anthony Quinn Bay, Lindos Bay
Historical streets of old town Rhodes with flowers in Rhodes, Dodecanese, Greece

Within the city of Rhodes

Lindos Rhodes Greece

Sight of the white town of Lindos

It was my initial experience, the first meeting ​with the unfamiliar Greece that I ventured to, ​hoping to come back with some answers in my ​luggage.


Rhodes ranks as the second largest island in ​Greece and is situated very close to the ​Turkish coast.


The eastern coast has many large bays and ​small gulfs scattered with umbrellas where ​you can relax and doze off while listening to ​the sound of pebbles being moved by the sea.


Lindos town stands out along the coastline ​with its iconic white square-shaped houses ​that ascend steeply up a picturesque cliff ​towards the Temple of Minerva Lindia.

Together with the bay below, it creates the ​perfect image of Greece that is familiar to ​everyone.

Lindos Beach in Rhodes Island

Lindos Bay View

As you keep going along the coast, you'll pass by the bustling ​English tourist hub of Faliraki and the stunning Anthony Quinn Bay ​before reaching Rhodes Town.

The historic center features charming paved streets adorned with ​creepers and bougainvillea, weaving between low pastel-colored ​buildings. It stretches from the remains of the medieval citadel to the ​Gothic castle, where the tales of the Knights of St. John, the city's ​founders, still echo.

Starting from the central Piazza Ippocrate, with its charming fountain, ​you can head towards the Clock Tower. From there, you can admire ​a lovely view and then walk along its Walls, making it one of the ​best-preserved complexes in Europe.

Mandraki port with deers statue, where The Colossus was standing and fort of St. Nicholas. Rhodes, Greece. Hirschkuh statue in the place of the Colossus of Rhodes, Rhodes, Greece

The port entrance where the Colossus of Rhodes ​stood

When we get to the port, we spot the two columns with bronze deer ​placed where the feet of the majestic Colossus of Rhodes stood, one ​of the seven wonders of the ancient world. It was destroyed by the ​226 BC earthquake and acted as a landmark for sailors back then.


I enjoyed strolling through its vibrant streets, visiting trattorias and ​souvenir shops, and soaking in the laid-back atmosphere that I ​would forever associate with Greece.

Essential for this journey

Rhodes isn't just a place filled with centuries of history and a sea that blends into the sky.


Riding a motorcycle, we drive onto the island along country roads passing through quiet villages ​and ancient olive trees, watching the landscape transition from a golden straw color to a vibrant ​green.

The Valley of the Butterflies Rhodes

The Valley of Butterflies ​is located in the center ​of Rhodes.

Dodecanese butterflies resting on a tree trunk at the Valley of Butterflies, Rhodes, Greece

The Valley of the Butterflies bursts with plants and ​streams where, during mating season, red and brown ​butterflies seek shelter in such large quantities that ​they entirely conceal the tree trunks and rocks.

We keep going until we get to the west coast: beaten by the winds and at the mercy of the sea's ​whims, it's like a grumpy old man who seems wary and untrusting, just waiting for a patient person ​to reveal his most endearing and genuine side.

Corfu - Sissi's Island

Italian's favorite

Things to Check Out in Corfu:


  • The cities are Corfu City and Paleokastritsa.
  • Historical sites: Achillion Palace, the fortress in Corfu Town.
  • Natural Beauties: Cape Drastis, Lake Korission
  • The beaches at Akoli Bay and Halikounas.

My relaxing times at Akoli Bay

Corfu is an island that Italians can easily reach due to frequent air connections and numerous ferries ​that typically depart from the ports of Bari and Brindisi.

The Greek island farthest to the north, extending into the Ionian Sea, was preferred by the Habsburg ​Empress Sissi, who vacationed in the Achillion Palace. The palace was constructed to honor the ​deeds of the legendary hero Achilles and is currently accessible to the public. It houses a museum ​and is primarily utilized for official functions.

Corfu, Greece

Within the streets of Corfu Town

After getting off the ferry at the port of Corfu ​Town, we made our way to the center and started ​wandering through the labyrinth of narrow streets ​in the pedestrian zone. The area was filled with ​brightly colored buildings and others showing the ​marks of time, all blending together beautifully to ​showcase imperfection.

We walked under Venetian-style covered walkways where there are now ​shops and trattorias, through pathways that lead to paved squares, ​beside Orthodox churches and among neoclassical buildings.

We walked down some stairs that led us into narrow streets opening up ​into busy squares filled with locals going about their day, and eventually, ​we reached Piazza Spianada, the heart of the city's social scene.


Nearby, on a rocky spur extending towards the horizon, you'll find the ​Fortress from the Venetian era. It overlooks the tourist port from its prime ​spot by the sea and safeguards the historical area behind it.

Corfu Town

The arcades in Venetian style

We kept heading north along the rugged coastline where pebble shores with clear water are ​nestled between the coves and charming seaside towns like Santo Stefano and Kerassia, so near to ​Albania that you can almost reach out and touch it.

Akoli Beach

Starting from Kassopei, where we stayed on the island, ​we drove towards the coast and then walked about a ​kilometer on a dirt road through a dense forest to Akoli ​Beach. There, we found it empty and absolutely ​beautiful.


We spent a whole afternoon there, admiring the beauty ​of our world while soaking in the clear water.

The north of the island offers a series of stunning views: pause to admire the scenery from the ​promontory of Cape Drastis, where the rock formations sculpted by the sea and wind will capture ​your heart.

The plants on the plateau are dense and reach the sea; the uninterrupted greenery is only broken by ​the rooftops of the houses peeking through the branches towards the sky.

Picturesque seaside of Paleokastritsa, Corfu, Greece. Beautiful bay in Paleokastritsa in Corfu island, Greece. Panoramic view of Palaiokastritsa, boats and beach Corfu, Greece

The coves in the Paleokastritsa region

Traveling along the west coast, you'll reach Paleokastritsa, ​the island's most renowned town known for its stunning ​natural port that envelops the town center.

We thought it was too touristy and really crowded, so we ​chose to head south in search of a more laid-back vibe.

Here, the shoreline is more vulnerable to weather elements, and the beaches transform into lengthy ​stretches of golden sand bordered by Mediterranean vegetation.

We stroll along the sandy stretch of Halikounas that appears to extend to the horizon and beyond, ​separating the sea from Lake Korission, a natural haven for herons and a distinctive environment for ​fish and fish farms.

Kite surfer on Lake Michigan
Kite Surfing

Kite surfing at Halikounas beach

Here, many vibrant kites, drawn by the steady ​wind, created a captivating sight as they ​floated into the sky, effortlessly moving with ​the breeze like feathers.

On the way back, we drive along small, winding roads in the interior ​lined with cypresses, olive trees, oleanders,... passing through villages ​that appear to have stayed the same for at least a century, each with its ​genuine essence, unaffected by the modern world's transformations.

Kos - Sea and Wind

Things to do and see in Kos

Things to check out in Kos:


  • The city: Kos City
  • Historical Site: Kefalos Bay
  • The Natural Beauties: The Nearby Islands of Kalymnos, Pserimos, and Plati
  • Beaches: Agios Fokas, Agios Stefano, Paradise Beach, Camel Beach

With a strong craving for the sea and relaxation, my friend and I book the earliest flight available ​and quickly end up in Greece, the clear favorite for my perfect vacations.

Here I find myself on the lively streets of Kos.

We'll get to the island of Kos in under three hours. It's known ​as the bicycle island due to the many paths that crisscross it, ​both inland and along the coast, and the over 6,500 rental ​bikes you can find there.

We quickly check into a modest yet tidy and conveniently ​located hotel in the capital of Kos.


The town features a charming pedestrianized historic area ​where you can wander around traditional trattorias, where ​welcoming restaurant owners offer delicious Greek cuisine, ​souvenir shops, and local products located in the short, ​pastel-colored buildings surrounded by bright fuchsia ​bougainvillea clouds that add a cheerful splash of color.

In the streets, you can find different historical sites like ​the Roman House, the Roman Odeon, the ancient ​Agora, and the Hippocratic Plane Tree. This tree, where ​the father of medicine once taught his students, has ​witnessed 2,000 years of history and now stands ​twisted like an arthritic hand, needing scaffolding to ​prevent it from leaning to one side.

Plane Tree of Hippocrates in Kos Town

The scaffolding is holding up the Hippocratic Plane Tree

The tourist boat's masts

Large and small boats line the seafront of the tourist port, waiting for ​the perfect time to sail.

Some people will guide tourists to stunning beaches and islands, ​while others will go to Bodrum, known as the gem of Turkish coastal ​tourism and situated just 4 km away from us.

To us, a vacation isn't a vacation without a boat ride.

The next day, we headed to Kalymnos with a group of ​around 20 people. We sailed into a narrow fjord that cuts ​through a sun-drenched headland.

Shielded by the shape of the land, there's a quaint fishing ​harbor at the end of the bay that is so beautifully simple, it ​leaves you in awe.

The inlet on Kalymnos Island

The beach on Pserimos island

The next destination is Pserimos Island.

We both dream about spending the night at the island's sole hotel ​with a view of the beach, but our dreams are shattered by it being ​fully booked.

So, we pause for a short while to stroll on the sandy crescent and ​gaze at a desolate scenery that I want to etch into my memory.

The blue waters of Plati Island

We're still on the boat heading back, but before that, we make a ​quick stop near the tiny Plati island.


Diving from the boat into the deep blue water, with its clear shades, ​feels incredibly light: it was the most amazing sensation ever, and I ​owe it all to Kos.

We get around the island using public ​buses, which are punctual and ​comfortable. That day, we decided to visit ​the nearby beach of Agios Fokas.

It's a lovely, secluded pebble beach with ​straw umbrellas and sunbeds, and a ​charming tavern in the back.


We hop back on the bus and drive along ​the southern coast, which is more ​protected from the constant Meltemi wind ​blowing on the island.

The beautiful Agios ​Fokas beach

The Kefalos area stands out as the most stunning on the island. A lengthy pebble beach with ​shallow waters stretches from the town and leads to several small bays. These bays are home to ​tranquil beaches like the remarkable Agios Stefanos, known for the ancient basilica ruins, as well as ​the secluded Camel Beach and Paradise Beach.

All the beaches have straw umbrellas, sunbeds, and beach bars that blend in nicely with the natural ​landscape sloping towards the sea.


The water looks so inviting that you can't resist taking a swim. Just be cautious, it's quite chilly. You ​have to see it to believe it!

Paradise Beach View

The clear water of Kefalos Bay

View from Agios Stefanos shore

Zakynthos

The Turtle Nests, Shipwreck Beach and the stunning cliffs

Things to Check Out in Zante:


  • The cities are Zante City and Tsilivi.
  • Natural beauty: the cliffs on the western side, the Wreck Beach, the turtle nesting sites.
  • Beaches: Xigia, Makris Gialos, Gerakas, Dafni

Ugo Foscolo penned these words filled with sorrow to convey ​his emotions about departing from the island of his birth: ​"Never again will I touch the sacred shores."


My friend and I are back together, fully aware of how hard it is ​to erase Zakynthos from our memories. This island in the ​Ionian Sea is known for its white cliffs by the sea, hidden ​beaches, breathtaking sunsets over the beautiful sea, and ​narrow streets bordered by olive trees.

The cliffs of Zakynthos (Zante)

The lovely Xigia Bay

The island's tip: Cape Skinari

The most effective way to grasp its layout is by embarking on ​one of the numerous organized excursions leaving from the ​port of Zakynthos city, just like my friend and I did.


We drove past Tsilivi beach, a bustling tourist spot on the east ​coast, and took a quick swim at Xigia beach, a beautiful pebble ​beach surrounded by Mediterranean plants close to sulfur ​springs. We spotted Makris Gialos beach for tomorrow's visit ​and crossed over Cape Skinari.


On this part of the island, the tall white tuff walls drop steeply ​into the sea, forming a striking contrast of white and blue ​reminiscent of the Greek flag.

There's a series of small bays, marinas with just a few ​boats docked like Porto Vromi and Porto Steniti, sea-​carved caves in the crumbly rock like Keri Cave or Cape ​Marathia, and very white narrow beaches accessible only ​by sea with space for just a couple of towels.

We cruise along the lengthy cliff on a boat, where the ​vivid blue of the sea gently touches small beaches of ​cream-colored pebbles, and the wall above them ​gradually shifts to golden-pink as the sun sets.

The cliffs along the western coast of the ​island

Shipwreck Beach is located between the cliffs of ​Zakynthos

I'm close to the Panagiotis boat.

The highly renowned and photographed Spiaggia del Relitto ​lives up to its reputation.

Due to the risk of landslides, it's currently not safe to access ​the beach. However, its secluded and scenic location adds ​to its charm.

The cargo ship Panagiotis, currently beached and encircled ​by stunning cliffs, grounded in 1980 when it lost control in ​rough waves and wind with a load of smuggled cigarettes.

The sailors who were unlucky would never have imagined that the ship, now corroded by the salt, ​would become the ultimate symbol of the beauty of the Greek islands.

Zakynthos is not only a tourist paradise but also well-known for being a breeding ground for ​caretta-caretta turtles. It was quite exciting to spot them coming up to the surface for a breath ​before swiftly and gracefully swimming away from the boat.

At the edge of the island, in the untamed Gerakas Bay, you can observe the turtle nests up close, ​shielded by wooden structures, anticipating the hatching of the eggs after 40-70 days of incubation.

We drive our rental car through the Laganas area ​without stopping because it's too touristy and ​busy for us. We wind our way over the central ​plateau of the island, navigating countless curves ​amidst olive tree fields and the smell of straw. ​We pause to take a photo with the ancient olive ​tree in Exo Chora before reaching the coast.

From the viewpoint, the Relitto beach presents ​its best profile against an ultramarine blue ​backdrop and a white border.

The view of the wreck beach from ​above

We're still craving views that stretch from the sea to infinity: we pause in Kampi at a charming ​restaurant that hangs over the steep cliff, mirroring the outline of the rocky ridge.

The dinner features classic Greek dishes with rich flavors from traditional cuisine, all enjoyed with a ​stunning view.

Dafni's lovely beach

Our vacation is coming to an end, but we can still squeeze in ​a swim before going to the airport.


We picked Dafni beach, situated on the southern peninsula, ​close to Gerakas.

It's a lovely stretch of golden sand mirrored in a clear and shallow sea, dotted with cozy trattorias ​and lined with casuarina trees.

We stroll along the shore and watch as the land meets the sky.

We spotted a really unique spot: tables, chairs, and armchairs, beds with ​mattresses and canopies, sofas, and upholstered chairs are arranged on the ​sand and among the vegetation as if to recreate a home setting with a vintage ​touch.

We're really curious, so we go up to a man in his sixties and ask him where we ​are. "It's my restaurant," he informs us.


So, we find out that the kind-hearted man has left his usual life behind and ​settled on this peaceful beach to lead a more straightforward life without the ​urge to move elsewhere.

What I need for this journey

Lesvos - the Stone Forest

The Greek island beyond the reach of mass tourism circuits

Things to Check Out in Lesvos:


  • References: Mytilene, Skala Eressos, Sigri, Agiassos
  • Historical sites: the Geopark of the Petrified Forest, the Archaeological and Byzantine Museum ​of Mitilini.
  • The beaches: Sigri, Agios Ermogenis, Vatera, Eresos, Petra

I glance at the map, noticing its wrinkled form, ​and can't help but grin.


Lesvos, also known as Lesbos and the third ​largest island in Greece, is situated close to ​Turkey. It offers a range of views from the lush ​inland, to the lagoon and salt pans in the ​central region, to the sparse hills that taper ​towards the western sea.

Picture of the poet Sappho

The peaceful atmosphere on the island makes it a perfect spot for modern and ancient poets and ​philosophers like the ancient poet Sappho, who celebrated love for her companions on this island, ​giving rise to the term Lesbianism.

The island of Lesvos on the map

Lesvos, Greece

The harbor of Mytilini City

The capital Mitilini is a lively port city, serving as the gateway to the ​island.

Walking through the town's narrow streets with its low houses in pastel ​colors is delightful, as is visiting the Archaeological Museum or the ​Byzantine Museum.


Traveling up the inland plateau brings you to the charming town of ​Agiasos, known for its ancient arts and traditions. Along its cobblestone ​streets, you can discover wood carvers and vendors offering local ​products.

The lagoons in the Skala Kallonis area are a magnet for different bird ​species, making it a paradise for birdwatching enthusiasts.

The town is a lovely village with a laid-back vibe: you won't find the ​pristine sea of the rest of the island, but it's a strategic location because ​of its prime and central position.

Moving further west, you'll find the lovely and serene Petra situated next ​to the expansive bay, offering a view of a beach lined with casuarina ​trees. It's a perfect spot to relax in a traditional tavern and enjoy the sight ​of the sea meeting the sky.

Starting from Petra, we can make our way to the Petrified ​Forest Geopark, which has been under UNESCO protection ​since 2000.

In this huge sunny valley that looks like a desert, beyond Sigri ​town, the fossilized remains of trees that existed 20 million ​years ago are preserved in their stone shell. They were ​covered in ash by a volcanic eruption, initiating the ​fossilization process that preserved them until today.

The Petrified Forest Valley

A fossilized tree

Lesvos not only has a rich history and culture but also boasts some stunning beaches.

There are many different types: sandy beaches such as Petra, Eresos, or Sigri, or more compact ​and pebbly ones like the beautiful Vatera or Agios Ermogenis with the distinctive white and blue ​church on the top.


No matter which beach you like, they all blend into the surroundings, complementing the man-​made structures and featuring crystal clear water in various shades of blue.

Picturesque village of Sigri, Lesvos island, Greece.

A lovely bay in Lesvos

Saint Ermogenis

Every location can hold various significance for each ​individual.

For me, a vacation spot turned into a potential lifeline, a ​fresh start, or even a refuge from tough times.


Discarded life vests, individuals similar to us strolling by ​the roadside to whom we offer water and food, and a ​stretch of tents in a makeshift refugee camp in the port ​vicinity.

Refugee camp

A refugee tent camp

In 2016, after traveling through Turkey extensively, the influx of refugees escaping from Syria ​reached Greece, the initial European Union nation where they sought assistance and refuge.

So, my time in Lesvos turns into my perspective on life, a stage of human interactions that will ​help me see things differently.

Exploring the Greek islands: practical tips and helpful advice

Population: 10.4 million individuals

Religion: Orthodox Christian

Security: check out the website viaggiosicuri.it ​Feeling of safety is felt everywhere

Currency: Euro

Entry requirements: ID card for Europeans. No ​required vaccinations

Best time to visit: June to October

Greek flag

What to wear: light and comfy clothes, sunglasses, and a hat

Roads’ conditions: in good condition everywhere. You can travel by car, motorbike, or scooter.

How to go there: there are non-stop flights from Italy to Crete, Rhodes, Corfu, Kos, and Zakynthos.

Ferries depart from Brindisi/Ancona to get to Corfu. Ferry from Kavala/Thessaloniki to get to the ​island of Lesvos. Numerous ferries depart from Piraeus Port in Athens. We arrived in Crete after an ​8-hour night crossing.

Power outlets: similar to those in Italy Internet: you can use an Italian provider

Food: moussaka, gyros, tzatziki, feta cheese, Greek salad, Galaktoboureko dessert, and Baklava ​Souvenir: olive oil, honey, olive wood items, handmade leather sandals, Mati the Greek evil eye