Travel Blog
Recipe of joy
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Bosna and Herzegovina
Things to see and do in Bosna Herzegovina
Across the hills of Bosna
BOSNA - 6 SPOTS TO VISIT IN A 7-DAY TRIP:
The lush hills of Bosna
A stretch of land on the Balkan peninsula touching the Adriatic Sea in the Neum region, Bosna and Herzegovina has long been a meeting point for various communities, faiths, and traditions, all of which have imprinted their mark on the land.
Throughout history, various groups have documented its past: Illyrians, Romans, Ottomans, the Habsburg dominion, and later becoming part of Yugoslavia after the First World War.
Since 1992, it has been an independent federal state working to rebuild its political, economic, and administrative system, move past the terrible massacres and crimes from the 1990s war, and unite Muslim Slavs, Orthodox Serbs, and Catholic Croats.
Repeatedly, during car trips in the Balkan peninsula, I kept crossing its borders. As I write about it now, fond memories come back to me of the winding roads that go down through its lush hills along the Una river, of the small houses with their bare brick facades scattered around, motels resembling huge toys and of the kind, friendly people I met.
Choosing which places to include in this article was tough because I think that every place, no matter how ordinary, can hold a special meaning for each of us.
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Bosna embodies vast forests, rivers, and waterfalls, along with cities featuring unique architecture with unexpected color combinations and chaotic layouts.
After the initial amazement wore off, these features endeared me to it and enticed me to come back.
2 - Banja Luka
Coming from the north, you'll enter the region of the Serbian Republic, covering 49% of the country. If you follow the Vrbas river, you'll reach the city of Banja Luka.
Church of Christ the Savior in Banja Luka
Dotted with tree-lined streets, parks, and gardens, the city is known for its vibrant nightlife centered around the main Krajina square.
The Kastel Fortress, reconstructed in 1400, sits in the heart of the city, open to visitors, and includes a charming restaurant with a stunning river view.
Another interesting feature is the Orthodox Cathedral of Christ the Savior, which stands by itself in the square with its golden domes and yellow and pink walls, and the Ferhadija Mosque.
3 - Jajce
We're driving along the road that resembles a ribbon stretched between the valleys, tracing the path of the Vrbas river until it meets the Pilva river and expands to create the Plivsko lakes.
The lovely town of Jajce is situated here, accessible through gates in the medieval walls.
These gates lead to the bustling center filled with buildings featuring Ottoman architecture, mosques, and fortresses, creating a distinctive blend of East and West.
Jajce Town
The Pliva river merges with the Vrbas river
Jajce has wooden mills
The natural surroundings show off various shades of green, with water cascading down high waterfalls where the Pliva river takes a 20-meter leap to join the Vrbas river right by the town center, making Jajce a more and more popular tourist spot.
Just a couple of kilometers outside the city, you'll find a huge park with a magical vibe, crisscrossed by trails and wooden walkways above flowing water.
The waterway features a stunning cluster of wooden mills that were utilized for producing flour and that originate from the Austro-Hungarian era.
4 - Travnik
The heart of Travnik in Ottoman fashion
Traveling along roads that pass through several towns, we make our way to Mostar, after passing through the historic walls of Travnik, the birthplace of Nobel Prize-winning writer Ivo Andric.
The center features Ottoman architecture buildings and a colorful mosque, making it a pleasant stop for a few hours and a good chance to try its typical sheep's cheese.
5 - Mostar
The Stari Most bridge in Mostar is a famous landmark
Among all the bridges spanning the Neretva River in Mostar, there's one that will surely grab your eye.
At the Stari Most bridge in Mostar
The Ottoman Stari Most bridge, 24 meters high and 30 meters long, features a turret on each side and its distinctive humpback line that connects the Muslim and Christian parts of the city.
Destroyed in 1993 during the war, this significant passage that brought together the two ethnic groups no longer exists as people engaged in a fratricidal war, leaving lasting wounds that still need time to heal.
Now, the bridge has been reconstructed, but it doesn't feel the same as before.
It has lost the essence of linking the two worlds that it symbolically brought together.
The Mostar Bridge from different perspectives
Across the Mostar Bridge
As we get closer to the central area of Mostar along the river, the council houses and buildings bearing the scars of war are replaced by smaller, better-maintained buildings that line the riverbank.
We cross the bridge where the boys are waiting for the crowd of tourists to clear out before they jump into the river below.
After crossing the bridge, you'll find yourself in a charming area with a Middle Eastern vibe, featuring cobblestone streets where you can take a break and enjoy a coffee... the Turkish way.
6 - Sarajevo
The Town Hall view from a Muslim cemetery
Sarajevo, the capital, is a stunning city encircled by the Dinaric Alps and washed by the Miljacka river, offering a lot because of its geographical layout, history, and the feelings it evokes.
The war in the 1990s and the devastating three-year siege by the Serbian army left Sarajevo in a dire state.
The city was completely reconstructed to match the original architecture. In this area of destruction and revival, the community achieved its miracle. Today, Sarajevo stands in all its glory as the diverse melting pot that has always set it apart.
In the streets, near monuments and gardens, you'll find Catholic crosses and Muslim gravestones honoring the fallen, now integrated into people's everyday routines.
The old town evolves from the Sebilj fountain square in the pedestrian zone of Baščaršija into a maze of Arab-style streets lined with shops brimming with merchandise spilling onto the streets, charming eateries offering affordable traditional meals, and spots to relax and watch the bustling crowd.
Walking across the river on the Latin Bridge or any of the many other bridges, you stroll along the riverbank, passing by the Town Hall building with its impressive yellow and pink facades and Arab-style decorations.
Sarajevo's charm lies in its network of extremely narrow streets that ascend to the plateau. You can stumble upon a mosque, then just around the corner discover a Christian or Orthodox church, or even some Habsburg-style buildings that make you feel like you're in Vienna.
The entrance to Bašcaršija, in the center of Sarajevo
Shops in the Bašcaršija area
Different museums honor the history of the area, including the assassination of Archduke Franz Ferdinand during his 1914 visit, which triggered the beginning of World War I.
The Tunnel of Hope ran beneath Sarajevo airport.
Outside the city, in the airport vicinity, a nondescript house concealed a secret that anyone who discovered it paid for with their lives.
The Tunnel of Salvation originated from that building and, throughout the extended siege from 1992 to 1995, served as the sole passage to traverse enemy lines and deliver supplies like food, weapons, and medicines into the city.
The house is now an intriguing War Museum with artifacts, photos, and explanatory films.
From the museum, you can head down to the basement and stroll through the remaining 25 meters of the 800-meter tunnel, which continues to narrate the tale of those who struggled to survive in the dark of the night.
Bosnia Herzegovina: practical info and helpful tips
Population: 3,500,000 individuals
Religion:Islam, Orthodox Christian, and Catholic religions.
Safety: We didn't encounter any issues.
Currency: Bosnian convertible mark.
Payments: Credit cards and Euros are commonly used. Prices, overall, are quite reasonable.
Entry requirements: ID card for Europeans. Passport
Best times to visit: spring and summer due to the continental climate
How to Dress: comfortably
Road conditions: expect acceptable road conditions, with the motorway only available in short sections between Mostar and Sarajevo and Zenica
Power sockets: are like the ones in Europe. Internet is widely available through wifi
Typical dishes:pljeskavica (similar to a hamburger, also available filled with cheese), Ćevapi (meatballs), grappa rakia, baklava (dessert)
Souvenir: copper and silver utensils, sheep's wool products, and hand-woven carpets
Average spending for 7 days (medium-category hotel): € 400 per person (excluding transportation)